If there are any techniques you are interested in learning, or any questions you have, leave me a comment!
Are you looking for the correct way to hammer your copper or silver jewelry parts to achieve a multifaceted appearance on the surface of the metal?
1. Hammer
The ‘professional’ name for a hammer used to hit metal is a planishing hammer (Pictured Below). The prices on planishing hammers vary greatly based on quality and where they were produced. On average they will cost $20-$30 for a decent one. If you aren’t interested in spending this much, you can pick up a ball peen hammer (Pictured Below) at any hardware store.
The main difference between the two is the face of the hammer. The planishing hammer comes with a highly polished face on both sides. Remember that whatever is on the face of you hammer will be transferred to the surface of you copper or silver. The ball peen hammer will have usually a less polished surface and little lines in a circles which were left behind by the machine it was made on. If you do not mind this texture being transferred to the surface of the metal, then go ahead and use a ball peen hammer.
If you don’t like the texture provided by the ball peen, you can spend time filing the face of the hammer with a metal file, (Pictured Below) usually found in any hardware store. The best type of file would either be a flat file or a half round file. After filing, then use various grades of metal wet/dry sand paper (purchasing a variety pack is probably the cheapest method) starting with the smallest number on the back of the sand paper and then working up to the largest number in the package. Side note: the coarser the sandpaper, the smaller the number on the back. A good place to purchase sand paper for metal is Ace Hardware, if there isn’t an Ace store near you, then check with the local hardware stores (if they still exist in your area). The final finish on the hammer should be done with a fine steel wool, which can also be found at the hardware store.
The file, sand paper and steel wool are useful for many applications in metal work, so these items wont just be used once on the hammer. You can used the steel wool to make metal surfaces look brighter, and the sandpaper to take out scratches on the surface of your metal. The key to sanding is taking your time and starting with a high grit and working to the fine grit to create a wonderful surface on the metal.
2. Surface to hammer on
The ‘professional’ name for a metal surface to hammer on is a bench block. These are also a highly polished metal surface that will not make marks on the back of you metal piece. These cost around $10-$20 and are a great investment, but there are cheaper ways. When I first started out, I bought from a local pawn shop, the face of an old iron. This is usually highly polished surface, once you take it off the iron it works great at a bench block.
You can also hammer on the counter, but the iron face or the bench block will allow a more solid hit on the metal. By putting a piece of wood on the counter, you can protect it from hammer marks.
Ball Peen Hammer
Various sizes of metal files
(handles do not necessarily come with them)
Great article!
Very helpful article, thanks for taking the time
Thank you! I am just getting into jewelery making and your article has been an enormous help. It’s a whole new vocabulary I am learning.
Thank you for the info…I am a beginner but really love the hammering. I clear;y know its an area in which I want to continue. I also love your work. Continue doing great things for the new year.
Ms. Millner,
I am interested in a hammered silver bracelet for my girlfriend. It is something simple and she has been looking for it for a while with no luck. I’ve browsed through your work and I like the style and feel. I think it is something my girlfriend would wear well.
If I sent you a picture could you do something similar? I’m not sure if you are interested in this kind of work, I’d love to hear your feedback.
Please let me know at your earliest convenience.
Thanks
Mills
Mills,
I am definitely interested in custom work! I will email you!
~Beth
My daughter makes jewelry, and is getting interested in hammered silver, etc. I would like to buy her a planishing hammer, but as a novice, I don’t know where to start. I enjoyed reading your article, and was hoping you could point me in the right direction. I understand there is a great difference in quality. Thank you.
Hi Karen,
There are a variety of different suppliers who sell planishing hammers! The price also varies quite a bit. I would suggest trying to see one in person at a jewelry supply store if you are in a big city. If you can actually see the hammer in person, you want to make sure that there is a mirror finish on both faces of the hammer. Also, that the head of the hammer doesn’t wobble at all. There are ways to fix the wobble, but when purchasing it new, it should be in top shape. I actually only paid $10 for my hammer from the local bead store, but a lot of the time the name “planishing hammer” is not on the package. The hammer has one large flat face and one the other face has a much smaller ball. The ball end is about 1/4 size (or smaller) of the other flat face.
Some of the good suppliers online would be Rio Grande Jewelry Supply (you need to call to set up an account online) and Indian Jewelers Supply. There are many great suppliers, but these are two that i have dealt with and was happy with their service. Their hammers will be more than $10, but will be of quality. Let me know if you have any more questions!
~Beth
Hi Beth
Hope you don’t mind – I’ve added a link to here from my blog post on hammered texture but you cover it in more detail.
Nice work!
A.
dear beth, i am interested in learning how to ‘pound’ a silver fork into a bracelet. the tines are twisted in curly-cues, and the shank is apparently made flat and then formed into a rounded wrist shape. i’m just copying one my daughter has, for my grand-daughter. can you send me to a website or help? thanks, cindy in colorado
I just recieved a bench block and hammer for Christmas! I am SO excited… however, when I tried a practice peice the hammer left circular marks on the metal. Am I hitting it wrong, or holding wrong? I thought maybe I could just file down the sides, though the ball on the back also leaves a nice little nik in the metal from some unknown source. I have run my finger nail over it, stared at it under a light and I cannot find the piece that is leaving this. Sandpaper is the route I should take….????? Thanks
With a metal hammer you will leave a hammer textured surface. If you want to just flatten or harden a piece of metal you would want to hit it with a nylon or rubber mallet.
I would suggest sanding the bench block and the hammer if you can find the spot that is making the mark. Or, you could sand the piece of jewelry that you are working on to remove the marks. Both of these options can be time consuming…
What guage of wire would you recommend for making a hair or shawl pin?
Well, it kind of depends on how you are going to make the shawl pin, but I would suggest 10-8 gauge wire. Here is a chart that can tell you how thick the different gauges are in inches and mm: Gauge Chart
Hi Beth,
After a piece of sterling silver wire is hammered, is there a way to restore the high polished shine?
Thanks!
Bobbi
Hi Bobbi,
Normally you would want to hammer with a hammer that has a high polish shine to keep the hammer marks shiny. If you are looking to make the surface flat and smooth (no hammer marks) you would use metal files, then sand paper (for metal) starting from the coarsest grit, working to a finer grit paper, then polishing with a buffing wheel or a jewelry polishing cloth.
Let me know if you have any more questions!
Beth